Monday, October 24, 2011

Coffee

Oliver and I were skyping with his Uncle Dan this morning.  Dan mentioned that he and Jessica went to our former neighborhood coffee place, Star Lounge this weekend. I don't know if Andy and I realized just how lucky we were to have one of the top ten coffee houses in Chicago http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2011/09/29/national-coffee-day-how-w_n_987371.html#s379233&title=Star_Lounge at the end of our block. When Andy went back to work I could strap Oliver into his stroller, walk two minutes and then enjoy a fabulous cup of coffee and a little adult interaction.

In India the coffee is, in a word, awful.  In two words, God awful.  It is mostly instant.  It tastes like burning.  There are some non-instant coffee options; most popular are the "Monsoon Blends" they taste moldy.  I really have yet to have a great cup of coffee here.  Everything tastes old, dry, burnt, yuck.
It is hard for coffee people like us to not have some even remotely decent options.  My Aunts in Miami sent us with some fantastic Cuban coffee which is what we have been brewing in the morning.  When that runs out, I guess we will have to become tea people. I really don't see a different option.  I refuse to purchase instant coffee.

"Coffee Culture" as it exists in the States, does not exist here.  These are tea people.  Chai people.  It is not easy for a lactose-intolerant person to find many options beyond black tea.  That said, the black tea is great; quite tasty.  There is ONE coffee shop in the new Mussoorie bazaar.  Called "Cafe Coffee Day" it is located next to a Dominoes.  This location should tell you about the quality of coffee beyond it's doors.  It tastes like water.  Most coffee in India is brewed with milk (they love their milk!) and then entire cups of sugar are added (to hide the flavor).  Some places even put a scoop of ice cream in their coffee (again, it's not "coffee" at that point, that's a coffee sundae!).  Cafe coffee day takes their drinks to the brink; each one is covered with whipped cream, ice cream, chocolate syrup, sprinkles, brownie bits....it is truly bizarre.  The men behind the counter cock their heads to the side and ask, "Are you sure?" when Andy and I order our BLACK coffee ("You want it brewed with WATER?") with sugar ON THE SIDE.  It still tastes like bath water, but at least we won't get stomach/tooth aches.  Once when we were in Dehra Dun I ordered an iced coffee, black.  It came to be looking like a black and tan.  What was my coffee suspended above in my glass?  I took a sip from my straw and *winced*, ugh, syrup!  I walked back to the counter and explained that black coffee also means no sugar..."No sugar, Ma'am?  Are you sure?"  I know I will regret it, but yes, no sugar.  No instant cavities with my second drink but I had all five counter guys staring at me in bewilderment, watching every sip, is she really drinking THAT?

Our social outings have changed since moving here.  No longer do we stroll through our neighborhood, coffees in hand.  No longer do we meet friends at coffee shops.  Here, we walk empty handed and meet friends at their homes.  It's different, but less costly.  We drink black tea and lament the horrible coffee with our friends from the states.  Care packages arrive and phone calls are made: "We've got Colombian here, come on over!" It's become a luxury rather than a daily practice.  I guess it's nice.  Good coffee is another item on the list of things never to be taken for granted again.

I was reading in the newspaper that a Starbucks is opening up soon in Delhi.  It is going to be interesting to see if the coffee culture takes off here or if they will steadfastly hold onto their teas. I would kill for a Starbucks right about now.  I really would. 

4 comments:

  1. You're a great writer, Lindsey! I'm so glad you passed on the blog address.
    I've always been a tea drinker, but I do know the difference between good coffee and lutheran church basement coffee (cheap Swedes!). I think CCD is fine if you are going for a dessert--but I have to agree--that frothy thing Jay and I shared looked like a Katy Perry outfit.
    Rose

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  2. I would die.

    Do you have a coffee maker? Grinder? I'll send some EVP.

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  3. Thanks Rose! I think of Coffee Day as more of a desert bar rather than coffee bar. Jen...are you kidding me!? How generous! We have a french press and I have a grinder here too. All things we couldn't live without. xo

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